The elephant in the room at AUT, as contestants for the 2012 Proud to be a Chef programme went through their paces before Auckland's leading chefs, was the question: why has it taken New Zealand's largest food producer so long to make a meaningful contribution to culinary professionalism in this country?

Fonterra should take a bow for actually sponsoring this impressive event, but 50 years into the modern era of New Zealand cuisine is too bloody long to wait.

The other big question is, where the hell are our other substantive food producers – the Silver Fern Farms, Affco, Cervena and Zespri entities that owe their commercial existence and international success to public support through the various offices of government. From their promotional coffers it would be fair to expect some return for local hospitality from those generations of tax-payer funded market development, protection and research.

Or is it that none of our major food exporters actually consider themselves to be part of the New Zealand food community? They have been quick to capitalise on the high profile of our most famous chefs, especially when they have been winning international respect in offshore competitions, but the Fonterras of our world seem more comfortable when they are firing their promotional dollars at foreign professionals.

This is obvious in the way that Proud to be a Chef has appeared in New Zealand. First Fonterra saw an advantage in promoting its business through Australia's hospitality industry, and then tacked that on to New Zealand. Is this indicative of a pervasive attitude amongst our food industry heavyweights that New Zealand does not count?

To take other evidence of the lack of support from our biggest food industries for our domestic food culture, look at their share of advertising in Cuisine magazine, itself one of the standout examples of the vigour and success of that food culture. Indeed, Cuisine's international reputation makes it arguably the most powerful vehicle for brand New Zealand, in the food sector, in important international markets.

Yet, in a recent (July 2011) issue, one featuring the short list for the magazine's Restaurant of the Year awards, there is not a single full page advertisement from a major land-based food producer, with the singular exception of Sealord. German cars feature, and Australian winemakers match the commitment to New Zealand cuisine of their New Zealand fellows. Even carpet makers, who must be one of the local manufacturers most severely compromised by global economic woes, manage to invest more than does any of our farm-generated-business giant.

So is it that Fonterra is happy to profit gouge from its comfortably protected domestic market, but make no contribution other than a back handed connection to its Australian activities? Is it surprising that New Zealanders are taking their anger at Fonterra, and its corporate compatriots, to political levels?

When will these companies realise that support for our food community is NOT charity, but investment in the complex culture from which they can build reasonable and sustainable extra value. Oops. I just realised. We are not talking here about companies that recognise added value in the global food trade. They are simply commodity traders. Expecting sophisticated marketing from them is like expecting me to play first five for the All Blacks.

The opinions of the writer are his own and do not necessarily reflect those of the publisher.